It’s the first weekend of October, and likely the last weekend for corn. Although corn had a relatively late season this year — one farmer at the greenmarket told me the lack of rain considerably stunted its growth — I’d expect that this is the last chance to grab some fresh ears, if you can find them at all. Here in New York, there was still a decent amount lingering at Union Square last week, but nature’s shifts can be quick.
If you can get ahold of some, I’d suggest dispensing with corn salads — my summer was filled with them — and opting for some fall-forward preparations. The first is one of my absolute favorite recipes, from the master Jacques Pepin: a rich corn gratin, wherein the corn is blended with eggs, flour, and half-and-half, topped with Parmigiano, and baked in a buttered gratin dish. Pepin does it beautifully in this video, starting at around 2:08. This is one of those recipes that I’d never thought to make before, but now consider a classic.
If that’s not your style, a shrimp and corn chowder is always a safe bet for a gloomy day. I like to boil the shucked corn “bones” in clam or fish stock, along with the shrimp tails, to amp up the land-and-sea flavor. That broth eventually houses potatoes, corn, shrimp, and any other chowder-friendly ingredients you’d like: leeks, scallions, clams, perhaps even some lobster if you’re lucky enough. Just be sure to add a generous amount of cream right at the last moment.
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Anchovy Trove to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.