Pasta salad seems to be divisive, perhaps deservedly so. It tends to be overrepresented as a heap of tricolor rotini and chopped antipasto items dressed in runny vinaigrette, and to be fair, that is very often the case at barbecues and delis across the country. (I’m considering macaroni salad and, even more so, the unimpeachable Hawaiian mac salad as distinct from pasta salad.)
I don’t have any serious qualms with run-of-the-mill pasta salad, but I do think it can be done so much better. It starts with thinking of this not as “pasta salad,” but pasta that just so happens to be room temperature. From there, you can really expand its horizons; when done right with lots of market produce and herbs, it’s a standout summer dish.
Here are two that I’ve been making recently: lumache with fish sauce vinaigrette, tomatoes, cucumbers, and basil, and a chopped broccoli pasta salad with anchovies, pistachios and fresh mozzarella. Both are everything that normal pasta salad is not: bracingly fresh, umami-heavy, and a little luxe. They’re also formats that invite endless experimentation with whatever is in season.
Pasta Salad Vinaigrette with Tomatoes, Basil, and Cucumbers
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