Cook Like It's Summer Again

Crudo is a perfect shot of sunshine during winter months

All-day braises and pots of beef bourguignon aside, it can be hard to figure out what to make in the winter. The summertime abundance of the greenmarket is long gone and supermarket tomatoes are largely inedible (except that unimpeachable year-round champion, the grape tomato). There are only so many snowy days, and so many soups you can make during them.

But a properly done crudo - raw fish, acid, lots of olive oil, salt - is a great answer to any wintertime gustatory malaise. A high quality fish market will always have fresh yellowfin, scallops, and whitefish at hand. Citrus, a critical component of any good crudo, is at its peak in the winter. And vinegar, capers, and olives - as well as any other manner of briny pantry items - have no seasonal restrictions.

While other wintry staples are built for comfort, crudo is a zippy maritime shock to the system. It’s also extremely easy. Below are two favorite recipes: tuna with olives, pistachios and orange, and a simple scallop crudo that can be dressed up as you please.